While it's not my favorite season, it's a great season, for all the reasons you point out. Very underrated, in my opinion. Other than one fabulously awful episode, and one or two that are so-so, the vast majority of the season is not just good, but excellent. I mean, Hush, Restless, Something Blue, New Moon Rising, A New Man, This Year's Girl/Who Are You...and that's just off the top of my head!